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The site was a rotary that enclosed itself
in an immense roundness. From that quivering space
emerged the possibility of the Spiral Jetty. No ideas, no
concepts, no systems, no abstractions could hold themselves
together in the actuality of that evidence. . . . It was as if
the mainland oscillated with waves and pulsation and the lake
remained stock still.
Robert Smithson, "The Spiral Jetty," 1972
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The work of artist Robert Smithson
(1938-1973) includes writings, films, drawings, photographs,
sculptures inside galleries, sculptures outside in expansive
landscapes, and various fusions of the above. But the
most famous is Spiral Jetty. Extending out into Great
Salt Lake like an enlarged 3-D negative of a finger-drawing in
sand, the sculpture's photographed image has come to signify
the first generation of earthworks as well as the Smithson
oeuvre and ethos. Yet this influential artwork, whose
scale and remoteness compressed Smithson's ideas into a
minimalist distillation, is also a changing construction in a
unique landscape.
The jetty, which was covered by
lake-waters a few years after it was built, re-emerged last
summer and autumn due to low lake levels induced by drought.
Heralded in October by Michael Kimmelman in The New York
Times Magazine ("After spending 30 years submerged in
murky water, 'Spiral Jetty,' Robert Smithson's great earthwork,
has reappeared" read the subhead) this event, however
temporary, prompts observations on Spiral Jetty as newly
experienced as well as reflections on its history and effects,
here especially as pertaining to landscape architecture.
Built in 1970, Spiral Jetty reaches into
Great Salt Lake from Rozel Point, on the lake's northeastern
shore in Box Elder County, Utah. As the crow flies, it
sets some 65 miles northwest of Salt Lake City and about 40
miles south of the Idaho border. Desert lies west across
the lake; so do some of the mountains whose November
snow-topped peaks can be seen 20, 30 and more miles distant,
and Hill Air Force Range, whose speeding jets are occasionally
seen and heard. It is reached via 15.3 miles of
unimproved roads southwest of Promontory, location of Golden
Spike National Historic Site. Although the actual golden
spike stayed in less than a day (quickly dispatched for display
at Stanford University to glorify magnate Leland Stanford) the
site marks where the Central Pacific and Union Pacific
railroads met in 1869 to establish the country's first
transcontinental rail-line.
Southwest of the gap between North
Promontory and Promontory Mountains, the land opens up and
descends into what looks an old flood plain and then, closer to
the lake, into mudflats. Aside from changes in how far
the water reaches inland, the scene appears little changed from
when, nearly twenty-five years before Smithson found it, Dale
Morgan described it in The Great
Salt Lake, marking the landscape as
one of the few superb places to view the lake.
. . . it is worth bumping and bouncing
over the old road to Promontory to go on a few miles beyond the
gray, pyramidal Golden Spike Monument and
experience the shouting presence of the northwestern arm of the
lake. Except for the twisting, rutted road and the
unsteady line of dusty telephone poles, this is the lake of
history that lies abruptly under sight. The gray-green
sage and greasewood seem withdrawn and unfriendly, the darkly
green blotches of the juniper immensely unrelated to human
existence, the far curve of the lake shore new and
undiscovered; you know this is how it always was, back to the
time when the first immigrant company went to California this
way.
. . . The lake is too difficult to
approach to be taken for granted; the tang of surprise and the
shock of recognition are part of its character (p. 20).
Last November, viewed from Rozel Point's
gently curved headland, the spiral-form jetty, sun-lit,
partially emerged, seemed both smaller and larger than all
those low aerial photos and film shots suggest. The landscape
as a whole - the hills, mountains, sky, floodplain, mudflats,
and most of all, the lake, are larger, more complex, changing
and captivating than anticipated; in fact they come close to
dwarfing the jetty. It appears small, obviously
human-formed and oriented to the scale of the human body,
whatever one knows of the famed heavy machinery and tons of
materials it took to build it. In this it sharply
contrasts to the abandoned oil-rig site, less than a mile away,
jutting into the lake straight and far, a picturesque, sublime,
industrial age ruin, seemingly scaled for incessant use by
super-sized machines. But the jetty, now covered with
white salt crystals, gleaming, glistening, a spiral made of
spirals, interlocked macrocosm and microcosm, is also big
enough to alter water-flows and in so doing it renders local
spatial variations to the lake-water's color. And if one
descends the headland and walks the 15-feet-wide coil 1500 feet
to its end, especially as emergent rocks become increasingly
small and few, Spiral Jetty becomes even larger.
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* Excerpt from beginning of article,
“Cultured Pearl,” by Brenda J. Brown.
Published in Landscape
Architecture magazine, May,
2003, pp. 70-75, 104-109.
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